To this day, most high-end markers, and many entry-level as well, accept barrels with "autococker threads". By the turn of the century, with the advent and increased popularity of electropneumatics, it no longer became profitable for specialized shops to produce custom autocockers, and they slowly began to disappear. Though the introduction of partial-electropneumatic conversion kits in the early s by companies like Planet Eclipse extended the autocockers' popularity by a few more years, the availability of fully electropneumatic markers that required less work to maintain caused the autococker to lose favor with tournament teams, and eventually, casual players as well.
The Autococker is essentially a pump marker with an automated pumping mechanism. It is a closed-bolt design, like all pump markers, and its operation can be broken down into two discrete phases, or cycles :. At rest, the bolt sits forward, closing the chamber hence, closed-bolt. This prevents more paintballs from entering. A pull of the trigger drops the sear, which in turn releases the hammer. A spring propels the hammer forward into the valve, which causes the valve to release a burst of gas upward into the bolt.
The bolt redirects the gas behind the paintball, propelling it out the barrel. On both the Sniper and the Autococker, a back block performs all three of these functions. The bolt is attached to the block, while a cocking rod which is attached to the hammer and designed to catch on the block passes through it.
When the block moves backward, it pulls the bolt back, allowing a paintball to drop into the breech. The backward movement simultaneously pulls the cocking rod back, causing the hammer to also be pulled back until it re-engages the sear. When the block moves forward, it pushes the bolt and the paintball forward, closing the breech. The cocking rod stays pulled back, with the hammer ready to fire. On both the Sniper and Autococker, a pump rod runs from the front of the marker to the back block and serves as the means by which the back block moves forward and back.
On the Sniper and converted Autocockers , a pump handle is located on the front of the marker and attaches to the pump rod. This opens the bolt, allowing the next ball to be fed into the breech, and simultaneously pulls the hammer back until it is caught by the sear. In the Autococker, a pneumatic system replaces the pump handle to automatically re-cock the marker hence the name, "auto cocker".
The pneumatics are composed of three components: the low pressure regulator LPR , the 3-way valve, and the ram. All three are grouped together at the front of the marker on what is known as the front block. The re-cocking cycle as described above is understandably complex, involving many independent components that must be synchronized in order for the marker to function properly.
The process of synchronizing these components is known as timing. Experienced Autococker owners claim however that with enough practice, timing becomes as simple and routine as the upkeep required of any other paintball marker. Most Autocockers are timed at the factory, and only need to be retimed if some of the timing components such as the hammer, 3-way, timing rod, etc.
Players experienced in both working on and operating Autocockers prefer a more careful timing process called suction, or vacuum timing. The recocking cycle is carefully moved closer towards the firing point, until the interaction between the ball exiting the barrel and the bolt recocking creates a vacuum in the breech. This causes the marker to effectively "suck" a paintball into the chamber. A common belief is that the closed-bolt design of Autocockers makes them inherently more accurate than open-bolt markers.
Proponents suggest that the absence of an oscillating mass during the firing cycle makes the autococker a more stable firing platform, which increases accuracy. Tests have indicated however, that where there is a good paint-to-barrel match , the design of the marker is irrelevant.
These tests, however, did not measure the stability of the shooting platform, which is the main reason many believe Autocockers to be accurate. They instead used a fixed mounting point which artificially equalizes the stability of both marker tested. Additionally, these test were performed with a single marker modified to act like both and open or closed bolt paintball marker. This modification along with the poor quality of the modified marker leads to inherently inaccurate shots for both versions.
The belief that Autocockers are more accurate due to their design is partially due to the confounding fact that the Autococker requires a good paint-to-barrel match. In open-bolt markers, the breech is open during the firing phase, since the bolt is in a "back" position. Thus, a rubber detent keeps the "chambered" ball from rolling out of the barrel before the marker is fired.
The closed-bolt design of the marker means that paintballs are held in the chamber, beyond the breech where the detent is located. The only thing keeping the paintball from rolling out the barrel is a good paint-to-barrel match. Autococker owners unaware of this fact tend to notice that paintballs roll out of the barrel when the end is pointed downward. Reliability: Due to their large number of moving parts, Autocockers are popular with tinkerers.
Since even seemingly unimportant aspects of the marker, such as how far the back block is screwed onto the pushrod, can affect Autococker performance, minor tinkering with the marker can compound over time and lead to failure. It is not uncommon for an inexperienced owner to try to fix an Autococker that is not broken, frequently with disastrous results. As a result, rumors of Autocockers being unreliable have circulated the internet for years. The reality however, is that Autocockers are extremely reliable once set up properly.
Experienced owners that understand how each of the parts in the marker interact are consistently able to modify and upgrade the marker without causing problems. Since new Autocockers are designed to work "out of the box," new owners are usually advised to not tinker with anything until they fully understand how the marker works. Gas Efficiency: Although the Autococker operates at lower pressures than many of its contemporaries, such as the Kingman Spyder and Automag, the forces and pressures at play in the firing and recocking mechanisms must be balanced for the greatest effectiveness at the desired shot velocity, something that does not have to be done at least to this degree in any other marker.
This is generally known as "sweet-spotting" the marker, or more specifically the marker's high-pressure regulator or HPR. If the HPR is set at too low a pressure, the marker will get insufficient pressure to fire the ball at the desired velocity or even to operate. If set too high, the pressure against the back of the valve will work against the hammer opening the valve to fire the paintball and again reduce velocity.
Either way, the consistency of shots and the gas efficiency of the marker are reduced, and a common complaint among inexperienced Autococker users is that they do not get many shots from a full tank of air or CO 2. Balancing the marker requires firing several shots over a chronograph to find the "sweet spot" of the HPR the point at which the velocity is highest, then adjusting the hammer spring tension to increase or decrease velocity, and re-adjusting the HPR to find the new sweet spot, until the marker is firing at field limits with the HPR at or near its sweet spot.
The LPR controlling the pneumatics must then be adjusted to use the least amount of pressure necessary to move the back block fully rearward. This process requires access to a shooting range with a chronograph, and significant time, air, paint and patience, which many casual players do not possess. This removed the VASA and directed the air supply through the bottom of the frontblock. This resulted in a weight reduction. If yours is a factory mini cocker, it will have the full serial number on the body.
Bodies that were modified will have the serial number cut off. These bodies will require a mini timing rod and a mini pump arm; all other parts are the same as a full body autococker unless they have modifications listed below. Halfblock — These are full length bodies that had their upper tube cut behind the feedneck.
The back block and cocking rod are completely removed as they are unnecessary. These are all aftermarket modifications. There are no stock WGP versions of this. All other parts are the same as a full sized autococker. Midblock — These are similar to a halfblock except that the upper tube is only milled to accept a bolt pin from the top like modern markers such as the Pe Ego.
The bolt sled on these models are smaller than the halfblock version due to the lack of space between the upper and lower tube. Midget — This aftermarket modification is pretty rare, but is out there. These are the smallest and lightest autocockers, but their velocities can be inconsistent.
Bolt length will refer to the distance between the bolt pin and the air inlet hole. This distance will change slightly between certain models. There are many models of bolts that were manufactured in different lengths. You will need to pay close attention when making your purchase. Very early ones are when viewed from a side profile are a large rectangle that is about 1 inch deep. Most of them are a trapezoidal shape for weight reduction.
There are many aftermarket options for these length bolts. May fit others not listed here. Trilogy- These are unique in the fact that they have the 3-way shaft integrated into them. Unique to the trilogy Autococker. There are many, many aftermarket parts available for this. These cocker bodies that require the non-threaded IVG will also need larger sized valve retention screw.
MQ Systems — These systems are pretty rare and expensive, however they allowed electro cockers to remove all mechanical internals and create the fastest shooting Autocockers. They are fraught with challenges in installation and maintenance though. The race for shooting faster has always been present in the sport, but at that point the arms race accelerated.
Planet Eclipse PE made a revolutionary development as an add-on to the Autococker platform. The Eblade system was an Electric Trigger System that would enhance the rate of fire of the Autococker platform and keep it relevant for a number of years in the tournament scene.
The Eblade system was so fast though that the hoppers at the time could not keep up with the rate of fire, so that prompted PE to retrofit an electronic eye to prevent the bolt from chopping the paintballs and make this available with their trigger kits. Current hopper designs do not necessitate the need to drill the body of any cocker.
That is to say, if you have an ebladed cocker and a highend hopper such as a Rotor or higher, they will feed faster than an Eblade will cycle, there is no need to take out the drill and modify the body. If a rare body is drilled it will generally decrease the value. This does all depend on the buyer however and their purpose of the purchase.
If the end goal was to make it an E-Cocker then some machining work was done for them and could be a benefit. You can use a drilled body for a mech or pump autococker. There will be absolutely no loss in performance. All Planet Eclipse E-frames can use all boards. The mounting hardware is the same and the trigger will register, however..
We should separate the types of eblade boards from frames. The following is a description of boards. I will not get into intricacies of each board, but will give a basic overview. Zero B- Blue display. Is the same as an E2 1. Blue display. There are probably more talking points than I can think of off-hand, but this is a refined E1. Better battery life and can be upgraded if you know the right guy not me.
E2 —V. This is the top of Eblade technology. The Worrblade is just a different Eblade frame with an integrated rail. This still utilized the PE E1 board. The Select Fire SF frame was release4d around this time, but was different in that it used another WGP exclusive board and the electronics were simplified. There is no screen on the SF frame. The lack of a screen does reduce the users options when interfacing with it.
Racegun — I unfortunately have never owned a Racegun equipped Autococker, so I cannot expound upon its virtues. There are players that do love this platform, but finding tech help for one is difficult. AC thread- Congrats! If you are an Autococker lover then you are in luck: This is the most popular barrel type.
It is so popular that most other manufacturers have adopted it as their own and allowed their customers the vast array of aftermarket barrel designs.
Mark also confirmed that Bud told him guns stamped with an R stamp were rentals. Find Dan on google Plus at here. In the years after the introduction of the Autococker he worked on Bob Long and the Ironmen's paintball guns. He also produced parts and accessories in the early s out of Connecticut. This kit was not mass produced and I would estimate it dates to Chris Ogaz began machining Autocockers for Spanky around or and this was likely one of the early examples.
Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Sign in. Log into your account. Password recovery. Forgot your password? Get help. Paintball History. Home History Autococker serial history R11 vs vs Autococker serial history R11 vs vs By dan paintballhistory. December 6, Tags "sat cong village" autococker history ironmen R serial number r11 r9 rental autococker rental sniper serial number dating sniper 1 wgp worr game products.
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